Flooring Installation:
Methods and Systems


  • Is not attached to the slab or subfloor but “floats” on top
  • Most can be installed over existing ceramic tile or vinyl and can be installed where there is higher moisture content with the use of a moisture or vapor barrier.

  • Is glued directly to concrete slab
  • A layer of mastic is placed onto the sub-floor using a trowel.
  • The wood pieces are laid on top of the glue and hammered into place using a rubber mallet.

  • Installed on screeds (1X4 or 2X4 short length pine) and mastic (tar) over concrete subfloor or on wooden subfloor.
    • Mastic acts as a moisture barrier
    • Nails allow for the most natural expansion and contraction of the hardwood floorboards.

  • Installed on screeds and mastic or wooden subfloor.
  • Not recommended for exotics.
  • Will give a stronger, less-forgiving hold than nailed down because of its two-pronged construction.


  • One side and one end of the plank have a groove, the other side and end have a tongue (protruding wood along an edge’s center).
  • The tongue and groove fit snugly together, thus joining or aligning the planks, and are not visible once joined.
  • Depending on flooring type, tongue-and-groove flooring can be installed by:
    • Nail-Down
    • Staple
    • Glue-Down
    • Floating

  • Click Lock | Snap Lock | VersaLock™ System
    • Patented click lock system – no glue or nails required
    • A “click” floor is similar to tongue-and-groove, but instead of fitting directly into the groove, the board must be angled or “tapped” in to make the curved or barbed tongue fit into the modified groove.
    • Pros:
      • Clean installation – avoid the mess of using glue
      • Repairs are easier, since you can remove the damaged planks without worrying about destroying the locking “tongues.”
  • VersaFit™ System
    • Shaw patented LVT technology – allows for 3 different installation methods
      • Loose-lay (float)
      • Perimeter glue (hybrid float and glue)
      •  Full-spread (glue-down)